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MSG Is (Once Again) Back on the Table

Joe Ray

created: May 11, 2025, 10:30 a.m. | updated: May 14, 2025, 6:02 p.m.

Easiest to pick out is the just-released Salt Sugar MSG, by Calvin Eng and Phoebe Melnick, that's a Cantonese-American extravaganza of deliciousness. Salt Sugar MSG, By Calvin Eng with Phoebe Melnick. "I keep salt, sugar, MSG on my counter all the time," says Eng who's such a fan that he has a little MSG heart tattoo on the back of his left arm. His favorite example is Cantonese chicken broth with scallions, garlic, ginger, and Shaoxing wine, finished with salt and MSG. Salt adds depth, but salt and MSG can make broth bigger, deeper, rounder, and more delicious.

4 weeks ago: WIRED