“There’s so much we can achieve with caramelization and umami, and the creation of what it makes is amazing,” he says. The menu itself is split into five sections: crudo, breads from sister bakery Thea, wood-fired vegetables, and mains like chicken and dry-aged fish cooked on the grill and in a high-heat oven. Dry-aged fish turns into crispy roasted branzino and red snapper ceviche with grilled pineapple, basil, and a lime vinaigrette. As the line begins to fill up outside, Blechman prepares a Moroccan fish stew with peppers, onions, tomatoes, and the more untraditional ingredient of gochujang (Korean red chili paste). Everyone gets amped up for service as the fish stew is finished with a quickly seared tilefish that is placed on the slow-cooked vegetables and topped off with toasted cassava flour.